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Pomegranate Treat

From the moment I walked in to Shockoe Slip’s Pomegranate Euro Bistro , I was impressed. The candle lit tables and European bistro décor were as inviting as the quote inscribed above the bar, "Wine is proof God loves man and wants to see us happy." The exposed brick walls complimented by the regal reds and gold throughout lent to the comfortable shabby chic setting. There is a reason Pomegranate is a favorite of several of my girlfriends. Romance oozes from every pore.

I was glad I had made reservations. This euro-bistro was packed. The relatively small staff, led by chef/owner Kevin LaCivita (formerly of The Harbor Club in Norfolk and The Culinary Institute of America), has been pleasantly surprised by the long-deserved influx of Richmonders. So, although we may have had to wait a tad for our entrées, it was well worth it. After all, we had luscious descriptions and appetizers and wonderful staff to keep us satisfied. And of course, oven fresh rosemary dotted foccacia and olive oil kept us delighted.

Let your expectations be clear. Pomegranate is not a simple restaurant. You will not find massive portions or plain steak, chicken or potatoes. In fact, I don’t recall chicken being anywhere on the menu. That in and of itself was exciting. Pomegranate is a euro-bistro, where the flavors are subtle and rich, with infusions and reductions to compliment the natural essence and the portions are reasonable.

It was hard to choose from the "Creative Beginnings." Each one read more wonderful and exotic than the next, from the popular cream of pumpkin soup with balsamic vinegar reduction & white truffle oil ($5) to the fire seared Hudson Valley foie gras over crostini with a raspberry & vin santo soaked preserve ($13).

I began with the generous salad of escarole with pomegranate seeds, shaved reggiano parmesan, black mission figs, tomatoes and toasted pine nuts with a blackberry mint vinaigrette ($7). The mixed textures and vinaigrette with a hint of vanilla was refreshing with every bite. I found myself wanting to lick the plate.

My husband chose the lobster scallop crabcake ($9). The delicate flavors of the fresh seafood were enhanced by the crisp jicama slaw, white truffle aioli & pomegranate reduction. Our only complaint was that it did not come in entrée portions.

For his entrée, he chose the special of potatoes encrusted tuna over grilled asparagus. The fabulous sushi grade tuna was done to perfection – the subtle flavors of the white truffle oil and balsamic reduction enhanced the natural beauty of the meal.

Our friends chose wisely. The first picked the fennel pollen encrusted jumbo scallops over seared polenta cake and fresh spinach with white truffle oil and, you guessed it, pomegranate reduction ($24). The delicate scallops had none of the fishiness or rubbery consistency that sometimes keeps me away from the shellfish. The creaminess of the polenta cake gave the dish the satisfying weight to perfectly compliment the meal.

The second opted for the grilled, stuffed & frenched pork chop with gorgonzola, pine nuts & spinach over mascarpone polenta & a cabernet demi-glace ($24). The meat was succulent and not overly rich, textured by the pine nuts within. And yes, the creamy polenta was fabulous. My fork found it's way over there several times.

I chose the bison "osso bucco" over the creamy herb risotto & fresh spinach ($24), not the standard item on a Richmond menu. The meat was so tender it fell off the bone into the brothy blend of risotto and spinach. The bison was exceptionally lean with the spinach accenting the subtle flavors of the entrée.

As wonderful as the beginnings and meal were, I must admit, we were a tad disappointed with the desserts, homemade by Kevin's mother. Coming from a Mediterranean background myself, I’m a baklava snob, so the honey drenched smallish dessert was overly sweet. The Kirsch torte consisted of chocolate mousse, chocolate ganache, and chantilly cream in between layers of cherry brandy soaked cake. Surprisingly, the torte was not overly rich. We rounded out our finale with the new addition to the dessert menu; a rum soaked almond torte with a raspberry and almond topping, complimented with a rum custard. Unfortunately, the rum was hard to identify in the somewhat dry cake.

And yet, all of us were forgiving because the whole experience was delightful. The sumptuous meals, the intimate setting and creative menu will ensure Pomegranate is a staple of downtown Richmond for some time. Pomegranate Euro Bistro

1209 East Cary Street

Richmond, VA 23219

643-9354

Most entrees $15 and up

Lunch weekdays. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Discussion Forum : Where's your favorite place to eat in Richmond?