Great Expectations
Recently a long wait came to a close as I finally tried Sensi , the new upscale Italian restaurant in Tobacco Row. I had heard wonderful things about the latest endeavor of Franco's Ristorante owners, Paolo and Rhonda Randazzo . Loving Franco's, my expectations were high and my appetite strong.
Keeping in line with hip Tobacco Row, the ambiance of Sensi is modish and vogue, reminding me of upscale restaurants in Naples, Fla., or New York City. The soulful, techno-Sade music added to the chi-chi flair of the restaurant.
A large bar area, including ample bar tables, is separated from the dining area by a mesh screen, allowing light and unfortunately smoke to pass between the two areas. Amber pendant lights and rich deep colors of cabernet, chocolate and orange add to the cosmopolitan flair.
The wine list ranges from $6-9 per glass to $24-$320 for a bottle. We chose the house recommended Pinot Noir , a newly arrived favorite of the bartender. Earthy, full and smooth, it was an elegant choice for $8.
The menu is classically Italian with antipasto ($8.50-$14.50), insalata ($5-$6.50), pastas ($12-$21), secondo (entrees $20-$33) and contomo (sides $4-$5.50). Sensi creates an interesting mix of classic Italian dishes with nouveau flair and fresh ingredients from local purveyors, but the verbose menu descriptions sometimes left us with many questions for our waiter.
We began with the Calamari Grigliata ($10.50), a generous portion of calamari sautéed with small pieces of grilled Fennel, radicchio, Meyers Lemons and olive oil. Generous in portion, the calamari was almost too subtle to detect any kind of distinct flavor.
The interesting and imaginative Seafood "Quattro" ($13.50) included two pieces of perfectly done ahi tuna accompanied by a wasabi and balsamic syrup, two poached shrimp over pleasantly spicy seaweed salad and an overly breaded pancetta topped clam. The hit of the Quattro was the oyster "shooter," - perfectly done without a hint of fishiness, surrounded by a tomato "succo," a broth accented with a horseradish foam.
The Salad "Trapani" ($6.50) was a delightful blend of sliced roasted purple and golden beets, Medjool Dates, "Couturier" Goat Cheese, Cabbage Hill Farms 12 Leaf Mesculn green, highlighted by a fruity Raspberry and White Balsamic Vinaigrette, both refreshing and a tantalizing mix of sweet, citrus and salt.
Our entrees came shortly thereafter. Beautifully presented, the Sautéed Filet of Carolina "Line Caught" ($21) was delectable; two generous pieces of fish atop seaweed salad and surrounded with Manakintowne Basil and "Salsa" Lobster Crčme, perfectly highlighting the delicate flavor of the rockfish. The Green Turkish Peppercorns were not detectable, but not missed with the luscious crčme sauce.
The Daily Risotto ($21) was a seafood combination of succulent shrimp, mussels, clams and scallops with a tomato basil finish. The flavors were fresh and stimulating, but the texture was slightly off, tasting as if the risotto had been cooked five minutes too long. Maine Lobster and Catskill Artisan Smokehouse "Catsmo" Salmon ($21) was a disappointing portion of homemade fettuccini, pieces of lobster and salmon. The three-fourths roasted tomato, one-fourth crčme sauce with Manakintowne Tarragon made a fresh but non-descript flavor.
Because of the a la carte menu, we ordered two sides: the sautéed spinach ($4) and the roasted root vegetables ($4). The spinach was drenched in oil, and the roasted vegetables were a serving for one, certainly not enough to share.
The dessert menu was ample with more than eight options to choose from, including the Chef's Tasting Dessert Trio ($10), tonight's choice being the Semifreddo and the Profiteroles . The Profiteroles were filled with a cappuccino mousse, instead of the traditional crčme, making the dessert too sweet. The Semifreddo ($8), however, was simply divine, a creamy hazelnut mousse on a chocolate beignet. The Budino , a sumptuous goat cheese custard served with a strawberry compote and pine nut tuile, was creamy but not too eggy, giving it the edge of any traditional flan or crčme caramel.
The Tiramisu Bomba ($8), Savoiardi soaked in espresso and layered with sweetened mascarpone mousse and chocolate ganache, was stronger on the chocolate than the espresso, resembling more of a mousse dessert than classic tiramisu.
Overall, the Sensi experience was good, but not the top-notch meal I was expecting. The service was very attentive, except for water refills. A cosmopolitan setting, enjoyable but not exceptional flavors, sometimes small portions and high price tag make Sensi a good B or B+, but not the A rating I was hoping to give. Sensi
2222 E. Cary St.
(804) 648-3463
Monday through Thursday 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
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