One Tank Trip: The (near) Northern Neck

History: Bound by the Chesapeake Bay to the east, the Potomac River to the north and the Rappahannock River to the south, the Northern Neck peninsula stretches through five counties, including Lancaster County , home to the delightfully quaint towns of Irvington , White Stone and Kilmarnock . First visited by Captain John Smith in 1608, Lancaster County became the center of the steamboat trade in the 19th and 20th centuries until natural disasters quieted the area's economic development. Now a haven for retirees and tourists, Lancaster County is relished for its quaint and peaceful nature, historical relics and outdoor attractions.

Lancaster County Driving distance: 78 miles Estimated gas cost (at 27.5 miles per gallon*): $6.10 each way** Directions: Take 64 East to Route 33 East to Route 3 West. Population: 11,567 (673, Irvington; 358, White Stone; 1244, Kilmarnock) For more information, visit: The Lancaster County Chamber of Commerce (www.lancasterva.com) Town of Irvington Web site (www.townofirvington.com) Northern Neck Tourism Council (www.northernneck.org) *New federal minimum mpg average **Calculated at $2.58 per gallon (latest AAA Mid-Atlantic average)

Lodging: The pickings for lodgings in Lancaster County are few and far between, but you can't go wrong with any of them. Irvington's Hope and Glory Inn , (800) 497-8228, a historical schoolhouse-turned-B&B, is the perfect option for a quiet romantic getaway. Closer to the water you'll find the Tides Inn , (800) 843-3746, a waterfront resort and one of the Leading Small Hotels of the World, featuring 106 rooms and suites, four restaurants, a golf course and marina. Or go off the beaten path and into Belle Isle State Park, (804) 462-5030, where you can rent the comfortable Bel Air Mansion and Guest House , which together sleep 14 guests. Restaurants: The renowned Trick Dog Café , now under the ownership of Richmond native Robert McRaney, is back in action after a brief hiatus last spring, reclaiming its title as the place to dine in the Northern Neck. Stop by for creative gourmet fare in a casual chic atmosphere, and look for lunch hours starting this May. Also check out the Tides Inn's Chesapeake Club , where you can enjoy charming views, fresh seafood and weekend jazz. Willaby's , (804) 435-0044, is a good lunch-only option for gourmet cheeseburgers and steamed spiced shrimp, while the White Stone Wine and Cheese Bistro's , (804) 435-2000, Saturday night wine dinners are not to be missed. The local , (804) 438-9356, located on Irvington's main drag, is another casual option offering scrumptious sandwiches, cool dips of ice cream and very friendly conversation. Shopping: Browsing quickly turns into buying at the surprisingly upscale shops along Irvington Road. Look for beautiful but pricey women's fashions at Avolon , (804) 438-6793, blazers and bow ties for him at Khakis , (804) 438-6779, and the latest and greatest in kitchen tools and accessories at A Time to Cook , (804) 438-6691. Locals brighten up their homes with fine offerings from the River Cottage , (866) 438-9007, while visitors love to hunt for antiques at the expansive Kilmarnock Antique Gallery , (800) 497-0083, and the more quaint Penny Lane Antiques and Gifts, (804) 436-1984, in White Stone. Attractions: The river is one of the biggest draws in Lancaster County, where sailing and cruising are popular past times. The Hope and Glory Inn and Tides Inn offer seasonal cruises aboard a 1952 workboat and classic 1926 yacht, respectively, while Captain Carlisle Bannister , (804) 353-2143, will show prospective anglers the way to hefty stripers aboard the Miss Linda. Make a point to visit the 1735 Historic Christ Church , (804) 438-6855, one of the best-preserved colonial Virginia's Anglican parish churches, and get your craving for the outdoors at Belle Isle State Park . If you're looking for family-friendly activities, check out the Irvington Stomp , a September grape-stomping harvest festival at White Fences Vineyard, (804) 438-5559, or Kilmarnock's springtime Crab Festival. Have you traveled here before? Have a favorite restaurant? A daytrip you want to recommend? Drop us a line here! Check out last year's look at (Near) Northern Neck and check back for more on May 1.

Each week we'll take an in-depth look at one of our "One Tank Trip" locations. Here is the schedule: April 17: Outer Banks - new location for '07 April 24: Williamsburg May 1: (Near) Northern Neck May 8: Tappahannock May 15: Virginia Beach - new location for '07 May 22: Charlottesville May 29: Eastern Shore