One Tank Trip: The (near) Northern Neck
The Rappahannock River , or "the rivah," as old-school Richmonders affectionately drawl, has long been a vital attraction to the nearby Northern Neck.
Long before Captain John Smith explored the area's waters, members of the Powhatan Confederation fished the river and mined the fertile inland soil for crops, which Anglo-Americans would continue to do for years to come.
| Lancaster County Driving distance: 78 miles Estimated gas cost (at 27.5 miles per gallon*): $6.10 each way** Directions: Take 64 East to Route 33 East to Route 3 West. Population: 11,567 (673, Irvington; 358, White Stone; 1244, Kilmarnock) For more information, visit: The Lancaster County Chamber of Commerce (www.lancasterva.com) Town of Irvington Web site (www.townofirvington.com) Northern Neck Tourism Council (www.northernneck.org) *New federal minimum mpg average **Calculated at $2.58 per gallon (latest AAA Mid-Atlantic average) |
It wasn't long, however, before vacationers rediscovered the area's intoxicating beauty, and today, the river lures visitors from Richmond and beyond to enjoy the peacefulness of a quiet, unhurried life. The Steamboat Era Just as weekenders today view the towns of Irvington , White Stone and Kilmarnock as easy getaways from the city, residents of Baltimore and farther up the Chesapeake Bay saw the region as a welcome vacation destination. Though the natural beauty of the river has always been a tourist draw, vacationers in the 19th and early 20th centuries were not seeking the same sleepy atmosphere that Lancaster County now offers.
Back then, the towns boasted several resort hotels, including luxury beachfront accommodations, and Irvington alone had a newspaper, several factories, an Opera House, a roller skating rink and a variety of fashionable shops.
"People came and spent weeks at a time," said Terry Thaxton , the executive director of the Steamboat Era Museum , which opened next to Irvington's town square in June 2004. "Most people would think that in the middle of nowhere there would be nothing happening except some people fishing and farming, but there was a lot going on."
The development of the Northern Neck, which for years prior had been a simple agrarian community, can be attributed to one source: the steamboat trade.
"This area would not have existed without the steamboat," Thaxton explained. "It was the mode of transport for commerce and travel."
Because the area that would become Irvington sat conveniently en route to the international commerce centers of Baltimore and Norfolk, the town, which was established in 1891, reaped the benefits of a bustling port community. Not only did residents enjoy the economical gain of sending their crops and canned wares up the steamboat route, but they were also exposed to the sophisticated culture, cuisine and goods of Baltimore, making them far worldlier than their agrarian counterparts in other parts of the state.
Of course, the lively atmosphere of the Northern Neck eventually faded away as the steamboat trade made way for the more efficient automobile and natural disasters wreaked havoc on the remaining steamboat wharfs and communities. But there's no denying the immense commercial and cultural effect the steamboats had on the region during their heyday.
In recognition of the importance of the steamboat to the Northern Neck's history, the Steamboat Era Museum was created to preserve, educate and interpret the era of the steamboats, whose golden days took place from 1880 to the 1930s. The museum, which is open Thursday to Sunday, features artifacts, letters, journals, temporary exhibits and oral histories, all relating to life along the Chesapeake Bay during the Steamboat Era.
The museum currently features an updated version of its temporary exhibit, "The Bay at War: A Storytelling Exhibit," which illuminates the role the Chesapeake Bay played in the Civil War.
"You always hear about the land battles," Thaxton said, "but people don't realize that whoever controlled the Chesapeake Bay was going to control the war."
The exhibit includes precise dioramas, carefully crafted by patient volunteers, that depict battle scenes and gunboats; three-dimensional maps and displays; a video scripted by author Eric Mills and narrated by Roger Mudd ; and oral history booths, in which you can hear secondhand accounts of action during the Civil War. The exhibit launched last year, but has been modified to include more interactive features, as well as additional stories about the Civil War.
Also new to the Steamboat Era Museum is an original entry exhibit called "Transition from Sail to Steam," featuring handmade models that illuminate the transition from the sailboat to the sail-and-steam combination to, finally, the steamboat.
The museum, impressive in its professionalism and attention to detail, opens for the season on May 5 and returns to hibernation on December 2. Steamboat Era Museum
156 King Carter Drive, Irvington.
(804) 438-6888
Thursday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.
$4 suggested donation. The Rivah Nowadays, sailboats and kayaks have replaced steamboats and gunboats on the river, as many residents and tourists navigate the waters of the Rappahannock purely for pleasure. While quite a few inhabitants and weekenders ride the waters aboard their own boats as Thaxton said, "If you live here, you have to have a fleet" there are plenty of aquatic activities for those without sea transport.
If you're in the mood for a little socializing, hop aboard The Faded Glory , the 1952 Chesapeake Bay dead rise workboat belonging to the enchanting Irvington bed and breakfast, the Hope and Glory . The Hope and Glory offers several seasonal cruises, including Saturday cocktail cruises and Friday crab cruises, featuring crack-'em-on-the-boat local crabs, buttery corn on the cob and thirst-quenching beverages. It's hard to imagine anything more delightful than licking Old Bay Seasoning from your fingers as the sun beats down on your bare shoulders and the old workboat chugs its way down Carter's Creek .
"After we take 'em out on the river, then people get it," said Dudley Patteson , who owns the Hope and Glory with his wife Peggy. "Then they get the river."
The shoreline of Carter's Creek, named for Robert "King" Carter , one of the richest and most powerful men in the British colonies during the 1700s, is dotted with palatial houses, complete with boat slips, manicured lawns and a Gatsby-esque aura. The creek winds in and out through coves and curves, providing a fitting backdrop for a leisurely cruise. Talk about a prime opportunity for escapism.
In addition to the laidback intimate cruises aboard the Faded Glory, you can also find means for casual boating on the Tides Inn Miss Ann , a 127-foot classic 1926 yacht, which offers lunch, dinner and cocktail cruises throughout the week. However, if your seafaring instincts call for more than puttering about, there are other options.
The Tides Inn offers sailing lessons and skippered charters via the Premier Sailing School , (804) 438-9300, as well as kayaking, canoeing and paddle boating for hotel guests. Explore the Northern Neck's natural habitat at Belle Isle Park , where guided canoe tours are available during summer months and you can rent kayaks, canoes and motor boats to explore the parks 7.5 miles of shoreline on the Rappahannock River, Deep and Mulberry Creeks.
Fishing is second nature to most Northern Neck-ers; you can try your hand at bringing in the catch of the day with Captain Ted Curtis , (804) 435-2919, who also offers sightseeing cruises on The Gypsy. Either way, you've got a good chance of hooking a stunning striker or at the very least have a fine time trying.
And, if nothing else gets you going, there's always the opportunity to sit back, breathe in and enjoy the sea breeze. After all, above all, "the rivah" is simply the best place to let go, lay back and enjoy the simple pleasures of life.
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