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One Tank Trip: Charlottesville

Caine O'Rear
caine.orear@richmond.com
Published: May 23, 2007

Charlottesville has long been known as the home of Thomas Jefferson and the University of Virginia. But in recent years the Central Virginia city has begun to garner national attention for its dynamic arts scene.

The center of that scene is the Downtown Mall , an open-air pedestrian strip that comprises more than 120 shops and 30 first-rate restaurants. Recent additions include the Charlottesville Pavilion, a concert amphitheatre and the newly-renovated Paramount Theater.

Charlottesville Driving distance: 70 miles Estimated gas cost (at 27.5 miles per gallon*): $6.58 each way** Directions: Take 64 West all the way Population: 45,049 For more information, visit:

The Charlottesville Albemarle County Convention and Visitors Bureau (www.charlottesvilletourism.org)

City of Charlottesville Web site (www.charlottesville.org)

*New federal minimum mpg average

**Calculated at $2.58 per gallon (latest AAA Mid-Atlantic average)
This June, the mall will take on new role when it plays host to the "Festival of the Photograph" from June 7 to 9. Billed as the first of its kind in North America, the three-day affair will include indoor and outdoor exhibitions of internationally-renowned photographers, classes and interview sessions with three acclaimed artists ( Sally Mann , William Albert Allard , Eugene Richards ), in addition to other events. All events will take place on the mall. Mike "Nick" Nichols , co-executive director of the festival and career photographer for National Geographic , says the event could not have happened in any American city but Charlottesville.

"I would have never considered this in Phoenix or D.C.," he said. "You've got to have an intimate, very European style…..I'm obsessed with the idea that you come to this thing without getting in a car. It's a very communal presentation."

For three days, Nichols says, the Downtown Mall will be transformed into a "living image," with photographic art festooning the mall's trees and buildings, as well as indoor galleries. (Exhibits will run in selected galleries through June.)

Grandmother cooling off at a wading pool in Brooklyn. Copyright Eugene Richards (1993). The idea for the festival, Nichols says, evolved from parties he's hosted through the years in his backyard, where friends and colleagues would meet from the world over to share their work and catch-up. Last year's party drew the biggest crowd yet. "It got so big it was just nuts," he says. "I think 500 people camped out the last time."

For years Nichols has talked of formalizing the gatherings into a festival. That dream moved closer to reality when Nichols met Charlottesville resident Jessica Nagle , who is now working as one of the festival's directors. Nagel organized most of the festival's logistics, while Nichols handled all matters artistic. "I can do the spiritual creative photo part but I have no idea about permits and all that stuff," he said.

In selecting work to be shown, the festival's directors appointed a board of advisors – editors from Aperture Magazine , The New York Times Magazine and National Geographic – to make nominations. They settled on work that ranges from photojournalism to fine art to wildlife to rock 'n' roll.

One of the missions of the festival, Nichols says, is to promote work that is on the cusp of breaking into the mainstream. Another is to showcase a large body of international work. "America has a kind of insular attitude," he said. "Often times you don't see things the way the rest of the world sees things."

And the festival isn't all about professionals. Amateur photographers will have an opportunity to show their work at the YourSpace exhibit. Andrew Owen , operations manager for the event, says he hopes the exhibit will inspire attendees to bring in their own stuff. "You're going to work with Apple [computers] to create a slideshow projection, so you can put together maybe a package of 10 to 20 images to show your friends," he said.

Each night of the festival will also feature an "Inside the Actors Studio"-style interview at the Paramount Theater. NPR's Alex Chadwick will moderate the session with Allard (June 7), Mann (June 8) and Richards (June 9).

Sally Mann –a self-portrait at her home in Lexington, Va. Copyright Sally Mann. Each of these three artists have distinctly different styles. Richards captures the dark underbelly of everyday American life in stark black-and-white. Mann, a native of Lexington, Va., is perhaps best known for her book Immediate Family , which features photographs of her children in the nude. Another book of hers, Deep South , evokes the Southern Gothic motif in ghostly black-and-white. Allard, known for the intense honesty of his work, has created affecting portraits of people from Mississippi to Mexico.

There will also be "Masters" classes taught by acclaimed photographers (David Alan Harvey, Maggie Steber, Alex Webb, and Rebecca Norris Webb.

For more information, or to purchase tickets, log onto: www.festivalofthephotograph.org. Festival passes are $99. Tickets can also be purchased for single events.

Of course, the arts won't stop once the photography festival leaves town. Any of the following art galleries on or near the Downtown Mall is worth a look on a day-trip to Charlottesville: Bozart , 211 W. Main Street. Gallery showcases work of local artists. (434) 296-3919. C&O Gallery , 515 E. Water Street. Gallery showcases work of local artists. (434) 971-7044. The Gallery at 5th & Water Local artists showcased in monthly exhibitis. (434) 295-4204. La Galeria , 218 W. Market Street. Gallery features work of local artists. (434) 293-7003. Migration, A Gallery , 119 5th St. SE. Gallery showcases local and national work. (434) 293-2200. The New Dominion Book Shop , 404 E. Main St. Bookstore features local art in monthly exhibits. (434) 295-2552. Sage Moon Gallery , 420 E. Main Street. Monthly exhibitions for artists. (434) 977-9997. The Second Street Gallery , Second and E. Water Sts. Gallery features contemporary art. (434) 977-7284.

The Charlottesville File

History: Charlottesville, best known as the home of the University of Virginia , is located 70 miles west of Richmond in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. The home of U.S. Presidents Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe , the city boasts a large number of historical attractions, in addition to offering a vibrant arts scene. In 2004, the book "Cities Ranked and Rated" ranked Charlottesville as the best place to live in the United States. Lodging: If you're looking to stay the night, you can try one of the 40 Bed & Breakfasts in the area. One of the best of these is The Inn at Sugar Hollow, (434) 823-7086, a secluded retreat located on 70 acres adjacent to Shenandoah National Park . If you desire more luxury, try the Boar's Head Inn, (434) 296-2181. The 170-room resort sits on a 573-acre estate and features four swimming pools, four restaurants and a luxury spa. It also ranks as one of the Top 50 tennis resorts in the country. Restaurants: For a town its size, Charlottesville has an unbelievable number of great restaurants. Zocalo, (434) 977-4994, which is located in the center of the Downtown Mall, offers Latin and American cuisine along with an impressive wine list and a great patio. Duner's, (434) 293-8352, is a slightly upscale restaurant just west of the city in Ivy with great seafood and a constantly-changing menu. It's often crowded, but certainly worth the wait. The Biltmore Grill, (434) 293-6700, a popular student watering hole on the Corner, offers a slice of bacchanalian college life. Shopping: The Historic Downtown Mall in Charlottesville makes it OK to be a mallrat. The open-air pedestrian mall comprises 120 shops and 30 restaurants, along with an ice park, a children's museum and the Charlottesville Pavilion, an amphitheatre that hosts concerts regularly throughout the spring and summer. A free trolley service runs from the Downtown Mall to the University of Virginia throughout the day. Barracks Road Shopping Center , located off U.S. 29 just north of the UVa campus, also has a number of upscale clothing stores and boutiques. Attractions: Monticello, (434) 984-9822, the estate of Thomas Jefferson, is perched on an 850-foot-high peak. Tours of the Palladian-styled home and its surrounding gardens are offered daily. Just down the road is Ash Lawn-Highland , (434)-293-9539, the home of James Monroe, a poor man's Monticello but worth a trip just the same. And be sure to make a stroll down The Lawn , the centerpiece of Jefferson's Academical Village and the only part of a U.S. college campus designated as a World Heritage Site. Have you traveled here before? Have a favorite restaurant? A daytrip you want to recommend? Drop us a line here! Check out last year's look at Charlottesville .

Each week we'll take an in-depth look at one of our "One Tank Trip" locations. Here is the schedule: April 17: Outer Banks - new location for '07 April 24: Williamsburg May 1: (Near) Northern Neck May 8: Tappahannock May 15: Virginia Beach - new location for '07 May 23: Charlottesville May 29: Eastern Shore

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