One Tank Trip: The (near) Northern Neck
The Rappahannock River , or "the rivah" as old-school Richmonders affectionately drawl, has long been a vital attraction to the nearby Northern Neck.
Long before Captain John Smith explored the area's waters, members of the Powhatan Confederation fished the river and mined the fertile inland soil for crops, which Anglo-Americans would continue to do for years to come.
| Lancaster County Driving distance: 78 miles Estimated gas cost (at 27.5 miles per gallon*): $10.10 each way** Directions: Take 64 East to Route 33 East to Route 3 West. Population: 11,567 (673, Irvington; 358, White Stone; 1244, Kilmarnock) For more information, visit: The Lancaster County Chamber of Commerce (www.lancasterva.com) Town of Irvington Web site (www.townofirvington.com) Northern Neck Tourism Council (www.northernneck.org) *New federal minimum mpg average **Calculated at $3.56 per gallon (latest AAA Mid-Atlantic average) |
It wasn't long, however, before vacationers rediscovered the area's intoxicating beauty, and today, the river lures visitors from Richmond and beyond to enjoy the peacefulness of a quiet, unhurried life. The Steamboat Era
Just as weekenders today view the towns of Irvington , White Stone and Kilmarnock as easy getaways from the city, residents of Baltimore and farther up the Chesapeake Bay saw the region as a welcome vacation destination. Though the natural beauty of the river has always been a tourist draw, vacationers in the 19th and early 20th centuries were not seeking the same sleepy atmosphere that Lancaster County now offers.
Back then, the towns boasted several resort hotels, including luxury beachfront accommodations, and Irvington alone had a newspaper, several factories, an Opera House, a roller skating rink and a variety of fashionable shops.
"People came and spent weeks at a time," said Terry Thaxton , the executive director of the Steamboat Era Museum , which opened next to Irvington's town square in June 2004. "Most people would think that in the middle of nowhere there would be nothing happening except some people fishing and farming, but there was a lot going on."
The development of the Northern Neck, which for years prior had been a simple agrarian community, can be attributed to one source: the steamboat trade.
"This area would not have existed without the steamboat," Thaxton explained. "It was the mode of transport for commerce and travel."
Because the area that would become Irvington sat conveniently en route to the international commerce centers of Baltimore and Norfolk, the town, which was established in 1891, reaped the benefits of a bustling port community. Not only did residents enjoy the economical gain of sending their crops and canned wares up the steamboat route, but they were also exposed to the sophisticated culture, cuisine and goods of Baltimore, making them far worldlier than their agrarian counterparts in other parts of the state.
Of course, the lively atmosphere of the Northern Neck eventually faded away as the steamboat trade made way for the more efficient automobile and natural disasters wreaked havoc on the remaining steamboat wharfs and communities. But there's no denying the immense commercial and cultural effect the steamboats had on the region during their heyday.
In recognition of the importance of the steamboat to the Northern Neck's history, the Steamboat Era Museum was created to preserve, educate and interpret the era of the steamboats, whose golden days took place from 1880 to the 1930s. The museum features artifacts, letters, journals, temporary exhibits and oral histories, all relating to life along the Chesapeake Bay during the Steamboat Era. - Steamboat Era Museum
156 King Carter Drive, Irvington.
(804) 438-6888
Thursday to Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.
$4 suggested donation.
The Rivah
Nowadays, sailboats and kayaks have replaced steamboats and gunboats on the river, as many residents and tourists navigate the waters of the Rappahannock purely for pleasure. While quite a few inhabitants and weekenders ride the waters aboard their own boats – as Thaxton said, "If you live here, you have to have a fleet" – there are plenty of aquatic activities for those without sea transport.
If you're in the mood for a little socializing, hop aboard The Faded Glory , the 1952 Chesapeake Bay dead rise workboat belonging to the enchanting Irvington bed and breakfast, the Hope and Glory . The Hope and Glory offers several seasonal cruises, including Saturday cocktail cruises and Friday crab cruises, featuring crack-'em-on-the-boat local crabs, buttery corn on the cob and thirst-quenching beverages. It's hard to imagine anything more delightful than licking Old Bay Seasoning from your fingers as the sun beats down on your bare shoulders and the old workboat chugs its way down Carter's Creek .
"After we take 'em out on the river, then people get it," said Dudley Patteson , who owns the Hope and Glory with his wife Peggy. "Then they get the river."
The shoreline of Carter's Creek, named for Robert "King" Carter , one of the richest and most powerful men in the British colonies during the 1700s, is dotted with palatial houses, complete with boat slips, manicured lawns and a Gatsby-esque aura. The creek winds in and out through coves and curves, providing a fitting backdrop for a leisurely cruise. Talk about a prime opportunity for escapism.
In addition to the laidback intimate cruises aboard the Faded Glory, you can also find means for casual boating on the Tides Inn Miss Ann , a 127-foot classic 1926 yacht, which offers lunch, dinner and cocktail cruises throughout the week. However, if your seafaring instincts call for more than puttering about, there are other options.
The Tides Inn offers sailing lessons and skippered charters via the Premier Sailing School , (804) 438-9300, as well as kayaking, canoeing and paddle boating for hotel guests. Explore the Northern Neck's natural habitat at Belle Isle Park , where guided canoe tours are available during summer months and you can rent kayaks, canoes and motor boats to explore the park's 7.5 miles of shoreline on the Rappahannock River, Deep and Mulberry Creeks.
Fishing is second nature to most Northern Neck-ers; you can try your hand at bringing in the catch of the day with Captain Ted Curtis , (804) 435-2919, who also offers sightseeing cruises on The Gypsy. Either way, you've got a good chance of hooking a stunning striker…or at the very least have a fine time trying.
And, if nothing else gets you going, there's always the opportunity to sit back, breathe in and enjoy the sea breeze. After all, above all, "the rivah" is simply the best place to let go, lay back and enjoy the simple pleasures of life.
The (near) Northern Neck File
History:Bound by the Chesapeake Bay to the east, the Potomac River to the north and the Rappahannock River to the south, the Northern Neck peninsula stretches through five counties, including Lancaster County , home to the delightfully quaint towns of Irvington , White Stone and Kilmarnock . First visited by Captain John Smith in 1608, Lancaster County became the center of the steamboat trade in the 19th and 20th centuries until natural disasters quieted the area's economic development. Now a haven for retirees and tourists, Lancaster County is relished for its quaint and peaceful nature, historical relics and outdoor attractions.
Lodging:
The pickings for lodgings in Lancaster County are few and far between, but you can't go wrong with any of them. Irvington's Hope and Glory Inn , (800) 497-8228, a historical schoolhouse-turned-B&B, is the perfect option for a quiet romantic getaway. Closer to the water you'll find the Tides Inn , (800) 843-3746, a waterfront resort and one of the Leading Small Hotels of the World, featuring 106 rooms and suites, four restaurants, a golf course and marina. Or go off the beaten path and into Belle Isle State Park, (804) 462-5030, where you can rent the comfortable Bel Air Mansion and Guest House , which together sleep 14 guests.
Restaurants:
Stop by the renowned Trick Dog Café , (804) 438-1055, for creative gourmet fare in a casual chic atmosphere. Also, check out the Tides Inn's Chesapeake Club , where you can enjoy charming views, fresh seafood and weekend jazz. Willaby's , (804) 435-0044, is a good lunch-only option for gourmet cheeseburgers and steamed spiced shrimp, while the White Stone Wine and Cheese Bistro's , (804) 435-2000, Saturday night wine dinners are not to be missed. The Local , (804) 438-9356, located on Irvington's main drag, is another casual option offering scrumptious sandwiches, cool dips of ice cream and very friendly conversation.
Shopping:
Browsing quickly turns into buying at the surprisingly upscale shops along Irvington Road. Look for beautiful but pricey women's fashions at Avolon , (804) 438-6793, blazers and bow ties for him at Khakis , (804) 438-6779, and the latest and greatest in kitchen tools and accessories at A Time to Cook , (804) 438-6691. Locals brighten up their homes with fine offerings from the River Cottage , (866) 438-9007, while visitors love to hunt for antiques at the expansive Kilmarnock Antique Gallery , (800) 497-0083, and the more quaint Penny Lane Antiques and Gifts , (804) 436-1984, in White Stone.
Attractions:
The river is one of the biggest draws in Lancaster County, where sailing and cruising are popular past times. The Hope and Glory Inn and Tides Inn offer seasonal cruises aboard a 1952 workboat and classic 1926 yacht, respectively, while Captain Carlisle Bannister , (804) 353-2143, will show prospective anglers the way to hefty stripers aboard the Miss Linda. Make a point to visit the 1735 Historic Christ Church , (804) 438-6855, one of the best-preserved colonial Virginia's Anglican parish churches, and get your craving for the outdoors at Belle Isle State Park . If you're looking for family-friendly activities, check out the Irvington Stomp , a September grape-stomping harvest festival at White Fences Vineyard , (804) 438-5559, or Kilmarnock's springtime Crab Festival.
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