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Dish

In the world of Richmond restaurants, one day you're in and the next day you're out.

OK, maybe that's not very original phrasing, but it's certainly true of Richmond's dining scene. It seems that restaurants are constantly opening and closing in the River City. In some locations the turnover is higher than others. So much so that some new restaurants are constantly referred to by the name of the restaurant it replaced. (Have you been to DeLux , in the former Southern Comfort spot? What about Sí , the tapas place where Caffé di Pagliacci and Wooden Spoon once operated?)

Take Konsta's, for example. It served Richmond from its home on the corner of Robinson and Floyd for years before abruptly shutting its doors. Carlton's took over for around two years and closed just as suddenly.

Enter Verbena (2526 Floyd Ave., 804-359-3122), the latest incarnation of the same space. Verbena opened its doors just about a week ago and, though it will likely be referred to by its predecessors' names for awhile, it looks like it's here to stay.

You see, Fan dining and Richmonders' tastes have changed over the years. The corner bar used to be good enough for folks looking to grab a drink and some grub. But these days, local diners are looking for something a little more. And that's exactly what owner David Bess (of Cha Cha's Cantina and Lucky Buddha) is offering.

Together with chef Todd Richardson and Noah Sandoval (both former sous chefs at Dogwood Grille) they've designed a menu of that Richardson describes as "redefined American cuisine." Since America is a nation of immigrants, flavors from around the globe were up for grabs in the creation of this new menu. Creole chicken ($20), phyllo-wrapped Atlantic salmon ($21), Mexican rabbit and chickpea and mint farro ($16) are just a few of the entrees on this menu that tops out at $24.

The menu is complemented by an eclectic, reasonably priced wine list (many of the bottles are less than $30) and a cheese menu, making the upstairs lounge the perfect place to sample wine and cheese. The folks at Verbena (named for the American herb plant) also renovated the space, removing the stained glass and letting in some much-needed natural light. Verbena is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. (dinner service stops at 10 p.m. on weekdays, 11 p.m. on weekends). The dining room is nonsmoking but smoking is permitted in the second floor lounge.

And Verbena isn't the only new restaurant in Richmond. The Phoenician (4401 W. Broad St., 804-359-5590), formerly La Casita Mexican Restaurant, has been serving traditional Lebanese fare for around a month now. The word on the street (and in the blogosphere) has been one big, collective yum. Everything from the food, the music and the atmosphere is a Lebanese delight.

In other delightful news, Café Rustica (414 E. Main St., 804-225-8811) finally started serving its dinner menu. Well, technically owner Andy Howell started serving it at the beginning of January, but asked restaurant writers to hold off on the news until they got the kinks worked out. I, for one, obliged. Affordable flavors of Europe seems to be the theme in this menu, with entrees such as schweineschnitzel (pan-fried breaded pork cutlet, $13), sauerbraten (braised beef, $14), seared fillet of salmon ($15) and scampi e pasta (shrimp tossed with smoked ham and sweet peas, $15).

Café Rustica is also offering a cheese menu and an incredibly affordable wine list (most bottles are in the mid-$20 range). Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday until 10 p.m.

And the German-influences on Howell's menu couldn't have come at a better time. Church Hill's beloved German and Italian restaurant, Acappella , abruptly closed its doors at the end of January. According to the owners, the restaurant lost its lease and they are not actively looking for a new one.

Speaking of Richmond losses, one of my personal favorites, Café Gutenberg (1700 E. Main St., 804-497-5000) in Shockoe Bottom, is for sale. There is no word about whether new owners will keep the place running, so get down there while you still can.

In other news, Bacchus (2 N. Meadow St., 804-355-9919) has started serving brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Sundays only. Also The Corner Café ( 800 N. Cleveland St., 804-355-1954) is under new ownership. Chuck Bradshaw and Michael Hancock took over back in November. They've made a few cosmetic changes to this neighborhood watering hole, including a paint job, and they've added a burger to the menu. A new menu and expanded hours may be down the road, but for now it's open for dinner seven days a week and Sunday brunch.

And finally, European Market & Café (2001 1/2 W. Main St., 804-355-5182) in the Fan is under new ownership. Jason Savedoff , a long-time loyal customer of the café, took over in May and has been tweaking the menu ever since. Its lunch business continues to flourish and Savedoff is looking to beef up the dinner carryout selection as well. He's added some new paninis and gourmet sandwiches, like The Scotsman (smoked salmon, Boursin and capers) and El Conquistador (pork loin withcherry and red peppers). He's also added entrées like Moroccan pork tenderloin and slow-roasted top round. Look for a First Fridays wine tasting and happy hour to start in March.

Got restaurant news you want to Dish? Send it to Karri at karri.peifer@corp.richmond.com .