Choppy Ride at Rowland Fine Dining
Rowland’s interior is plain and simple; high ceilings above a sparse bar, where local chefs come in for a quick one. There are about 20 or so tables, set flush against the walls — perfectly spaced for conversation. The patio is tight, tiny and umbrella-ed. Its view of The Fan, specifically the transitioning 2100 block of Main Street at Shields Avenue, with a gas station just over one’s shoulder, is lively. Sticky Rice and Delux are located a block away. On weekends, the patio offers Fanrat eye candy and just enough street noise that if you close your eyes, you could imagine yourself in a number of mid-sized cites with active night crawlers.
But, one decibel of music betrays this fantasy of city dining. I haven’t heard a set list like this since I was sneaking into college bars with a fake ID. Lenny Kravitz, Blues Traveler, Dave Matthews, all played back to back. Kill me now or bring me something really good to eat.
I didn’t start my meal wishing for a quick escape. The Malpeque Oysters on the halfshell, $14, were nature’s nirvana — fresh with juicy, briny liquor, served naked, the bivalves managed to temper the ancient tunes. But, the Bruschetta with Eggplant Caponata, $7, was all low notes. I started marking the menu’s score the same as the restaurant’s music selection. Served warmed, the diced eggplant was bitter and the bruschetta overwhelmed by cinnamon and sweet raisin. Eating this appetizer was like eating a Mediterranean version of cinnamon toast. Sad too—because this dish was close to revelatory.
The Caesar Salad with White Anchovies, $9, was a hot mess of slightly-fermented anchovies packed in white vinegar and too-sweet Caesar dressing. The taste of fermentation and the sweetness of the dressing signaled that the anchovies came from the bottom of their container. The dressing, rich with egg yolks, couldn’t combat its own sweetness, even with parmesan and garlic. What helped this dish was the offer of fresh cracked pepper from our server, Virginia, who is also a chef/owner at Rowland. But, the salad also needed a little salt and this left us in a dilemma—Do we dare ask for a salt shaker from Virginia?
It was such a treat to be waited on by someone so skilled at her job, and also a cook who could answer all of our picky questions, that I didn’t want to insult her by asking for the seasonings. I stewed inside for the rest of the meal. Kinda.
Pet Peeve Alert: Richmond restaurants that make me ask for a salt and pepper set annoy me. I remember when salt and pepper shakers retreated to the server stations in local fine dining establishments in the mid-90s.The logic for removing these timeworn table-top staples was that food should be tasted as the chef intended before mindlessly adding salt or pepper to it. I hated it then and I hate it now. I don’t want to insult a chef by asking my server for a salt and pepper set. I want to adjust my seasonings discretely. I always taste before I shake.
Virginia’s Peruvian Ceviche is offered in two sizes; the appetizer portion, $10 and the entrée portion, $23. The ceviche entrée consists of sushi grade tuna and halibut, and is “cooked” to order by citrus juices.
It is worth the extra time it takes Rowland to make their signature cerviche to order—the end result was beautifully pink tuna and pearly white halibut, firm and flavorful with subtle sea aromas. What makes Virginia’s ceviche unique, in addition to its thoughtful preparation, is a Peruvian chile she adds that makes the fat chunks of fish warm in the mouth with medium-spicy heat. This dish could have been spectacular had the chef had a lighter hand with the orange juice. The orange flavor totally overwhelmed the fish and the dish jarred my palate instead of melding to it.
On the other hand, the Butterbean Cake, $8, also available as an entrée, was an adroit mash up of creamy bean cakes studded with whole butterbeans and topped with cucumber, grape tomatoes, feta and avocado salsa with spicy cilantro oil drizzle. Visually stimulating, the cilantro oil had a whisper of heat and packed a flavor punch. (But I would have added salt to mine, would I, could I, have had a shaker.) We sampled this dish as an entrée, and my vegetarian friend at the table made me a convert to the meat- is-murder fold. That is, until next time, when I go back for the grilled ostrich filet.
The meal ended with our party noshing on a specious Bananas Foster, $10. Served in a waffle bowl, and almost all ice cream, the three mealy banana slices needed a little more rum in the brown sugar, cinnamon and butter sauce and a little less vanilla ice cream in the waffle bowl. The plate was decorated with a sloppy, chocolate tributary. This dessert was big enough for three, but suitable for children, who would like its presentation and prefer its subtle taste.
To sum up Rowland in one sentence; I’d say it is a simple, global peregrination offering more starters than main courses, all thoughtfully executed and unique.
Main courses at Rowland range from $22 to $29 and come with salad and homemade bread. (The bread is OK—poozly crust –it comes warm with delicious garlic-laced dipping oil.) Personally, my dining preference is to sample several starters instead of an entrée. I always over-order and making a meal of apps combats the embarrassment (and expense) of ordering two dinners because I can’t make up my mind. So, I will go back, for food and for wine. The wine list is compact and appealing, with a bountiful by-the-glass selection. Rowland entices diners with their unique specials, such as the “fresh spring roll of the day” and the Miso Roasted Duck from the regular dinner menu. I think I probably just hit Rowland on a couple of off-nights, but with the check well over $100 for two people each time, going back won’t happen any time soon.
Rowland Fine Dining: **
2131 W. Main Street
Richmond, Virginia 23220
804 257 9885
Atmosphere- classic upscale dining in the fine—not too formal inside, but definitely not cheap eats
Wheelchair Access-Yes
Recommended dishes—butterbean cake, seafood
Wine list –Yes, exceptional for its size
Hours- Monday-Friday5 p.m. ‘til ?
Sunday brunch 10 a.m. until 3 p.m. Sunday dinner 5 p.m. til ?
Payment-All Major
What’s in the Stars
0—don’t go
*-average
** above average
*** very good
**** excellent dining experience
Please sign in to respond | | Register