Kenn-Tico Cuban Bar & Grill Review

We’re always thankful for any new ethnic cuisine to bust onto the Richmond dining scene. Let’s face it, do we really need another Mexican restaurant to offer us a Speedy Gonzalez and a watered-down margarita? Kenn-Tico Cuban Bar and Grill, now settled in on East Grace Street, is the perfect antidote for anyone who loves Latin flavors, but is bored of the run-of-the-mill Tex-Mex options.

It’s apparent a lot of care and attention was put into the décor and ambiance. A bar flanked with neon signs offsets the clean, open dining room, while a relaxed mix of smooth, Latin jazz sets the mood without delving into cheesy schlock.

Our server greeted us warmly on a bitterly cold night and invited us to sit wherever we’d like. He promptly brought waters and we couldn’t resist a sample of one of the many varieties of mojitos, all nicely priced in the $7 range. Though the specialties such as the cojito (coconut mojito) were tempting, we settled on the traditional Cubano. We can safely say that Kenn-Tico is for mojito lovers—ours was freshly muddled and went down smooth, without any syrupy aftertaste.

We started with the mini papas rellenas ($6.95), fried potatoes stuffed with spiced ground beef. The fried outer shell was crispy and tasty, which gave the dish an overall win. The spiced beef in the center was a little tart for our tastes, but it still counts as one of the most unique fried appetizers around.

The smorgasbord of sandwiches and wraps on Kenn-Tico’s menu includes a mix of authentic Cuban favorites and more Americanized fare such as a BLT, borrowing from the owners’ popular downtown lunch cart. On our dinner visit, we went straight for the entrees, which stay pretty true to their Cuban roots. Each entrée comes with a choice of two sides and small salad, which is quite the deal, given that none of the entrees costs more than $12.

Jon chose the lechon asado ($9.95), Cuban roast pork marinated in house-made mojo criollo, a blend of citrus juices and garlic. The large chunks of pork were tender and juicy and the citrus of the marinade added a crisp accent. The boiled yucca was a good, starchy complement to the meaty entrée, but the arroz moro, rice cooked with black beans, bacon, peppers and spices, could have used a bit more seasoning to be more of a standout.

Leah went for the ropa vieja ($11.95), Cuban shredded beef seasoned with onions, garlic and bell peppers. Slow-cooked meat is always a favorite and this variety did not disappoint. The sauce was tart without being biting and the overall flavor boasted a fresh, homemade flavor.  The side of fried sweet plantains was fantastic. Bearing no resemblance to some mushy varieties, they were obviously fried in fresh oil and perfectly seasoned. The second side of frijoles negros (black bean soup) was the only misstep of the meal. The soup was hot, but the only detectable ingredient was the black beans, which made it taste as if a can of black beans had been heated up and served. Most of the sides available were quite tasty and complemented the meal well, but the soup seemed an odd choice as a side item and lacked in the flavor department.

Our dessert was one of the best options we have run across in a long time. The tres leches cake ($3.25) is a traditional Latin confection made with three different types of milk, creating an incredibly moist cake. Kenn-Tico’s version did not disappoint—despite our full tummies, the cake disappeared quite quickly from the plate. Topping it all off, Jon ordered Cuban coffee, perfect for fans of strong Caribbean coffee.

Most of all, we were especially pleased with the service. Granted, it was a cold, slow night, but our server proved especially helpful in navigating the menu and sincerely asking what we thought of our meal. He offered a brief history of the restaurant (soon to celebrate five months in business) and the owners, who still run their lunch cart in addition to preparing the excellent food at Kenn-Tico. He urged us to sign the wall up front, explaining that this practice is quite popular in bars in Havana. Not wanting to give away our identities, we’ll need to come back another time to proudly add our monikers to the wall.

It’s always refreshing and welcoming when the staff at new restaurants (and established ones, for that matter) show a genuine interest in their establishment and relay that to their customers. At Kenn-Tico, guests can expect not only interesting food at a great price but, also, a great, welcoming atmosphere. We left not only with our tummies satisfied, but also with a connection to the owners and their passion to share the cuisine of their homeland with the rest of the city.

What’s in the Stars:
0—don’t go
*-average
** above average
*** very good
**** excellent dining experience

Jon and Leah Nelson, like most married couples, can’t agree on how the dishwasher should be loaded, so they eat out a lot so someone else can worry about the dishes. As RVA natives, they have had plenty of practice checking out what the city has to offer. You can follow Leah on Twitter @leahwnelson.