5 Questions with a Foodie: Farmer Russell

"5 Questions with a Foodie" is our new column in which we chat with a local foodie. This time: Russell Bell, local farmer and foodie known as Farmer Russell.

About Farmer Russell:

Farmer Russell most often describes himself as a father, farmer, and friend. This fourth-generation Richmonder is the one-man band behind local farm, Edible Old Dominion. 2011 will be his third year offering Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) to RVA localvores and his fourth year selling at local farmers markets. He commutes five to seven days a week to a plot of land in Louisa County, where he grows a variety of mostly European vegetables using organic and sustainable methods. When not cooking for his daughter or picking veggies, he tries to keep up with local restaurants and art and brews a little beer.   

How do you define the term foodie and do you consider yourself one?

I will call myself a foodie until proven otherwise. I used to think of myself as a wine geek until I spent some time running around with folks who work in the industry. Now I just appreciate a glass when I have one.

I'm a strong believer in conscientious consumption, and I think most foodies feel the same. A basic knowledge of the history of how and why your meal arrived on your plate adds to the pleasure of enjoying it, in my opinion. By understanding what you are tasting, you can appreciate the art, or lack thereof, that was involved in your food’s preparation.  

If you could pick the best components of a few Richmond restaurants to create one super fabulous restaurant, what would they be?

Secco serving tofu would be too simple. Maybe a joint effort from Julia Battaglini and An Bui, with a dash of Gary York. Yeah that's it. Mekoco Sogno. I love the setting and artful simplicity of Secco and would be hard-pressed to name a kitchen that is producing more splendid meals than Tim Bereika’s current creations. I've been trying since the late ’90s and still can't consistently recreate Mekong's tofu dishes. Given the amazing beers An always has, it really seems like a fool’s errand anyway. I didn't visit Enoteca Sogno enough in its first incarnation. Each time I did, I left with a new mission in the kitchen. I am eagerly looking forward to their new location and more culinary inspiration.

How did you get into food and/or cooking?

When I was 5 or 6, my mother was the decorator for the Commonwealth Club. Whenever I went to work with her we would always end up bumping into the head chef. He was a big, rosy-cheeked cat who had been diving with Jacques Cousteau and always had a pocketful of the most amazing tiny ham sandwiches. That really left an impression. I grew up in a single-parent household and learned to cook for myself at a young age. I can’t remember a time when I couldn’t scramble eggs. There were always cookbooks around. When I got sick of cooking the same things, I learned something new.

I've been an ovo-lacto vegetarian for, basically, the last 17 years. When I removed meat from my available ingredients, it gave me opportunities to pursue options I probably would have never found otherwise. I largely started growing produce for myself because it was more convenient then hunting down rare ingredients that would have more frequent flyer miles then a national sales rep. If it hadn't been for a love of cooking I doubt I would be a farmer today.

If I were to ask your significant other or best friend what your worst “foodie” trait is, what would they say?

I don't believe in low fat anything. The amount of olive oil, butter, and heavy cream I go through per week is a little scary. During peak-season farming, I'm burning 4,000-8,000 calories a day. My better half spends most of her day in front of a computer. She is always saying I am trying to fatten her up. I've been known to look at a Julia Child recipe and ponder why she would even mention milk if heavy cream is available. It's all about portion control. My biggest complaint is when I hear people griping about the amount of food on a plate. If you are looking at 500 to 800 calories for a meal, give me two perfect bites of rich deliciousness to savor over a blah blue-plate special any day.
 
Describe your perfect meals for one full day.

Depends on the day. If I'm in town running errands, I'll stop by 8 1/2 for an espresso and a sfogliatelle, or if I have more time, the farm breakfast at Sprout is pretty hard to beat. Lunch will almost always be the tofu and rice noodle salad at Mekong consumed in the company of fellow beer geeks. If I'm farming, I start my day with a pot of French-pressed espresso roast with heavy cream and two eggs fried/poached and big, thick, slices of red onion over a sprinkling of polenta grits.

Lunch is whatever I can graze on from the fields while planting or harvesting, paired with two gallons of well water. This is the best lunch possible. Fresh picked, pre-frost, baby kale has a slight hint of pistachio when eaten raw. I would love to be able to have that experience in a restaurant, but I don't see how that would be possible. The flavors change so quickly.

Dinner works out the same either way, if I am not so exhausted that I fall asleep as soon as I get home. Secco for the cheese plate and whatever new delicacy is on the menu, or home for very fresh farm greens sautéed in olive oil with garlic, crushed pepper, sea salt and, possibly, lemon. Maybe some risotto or Twin Oaks tofu, if I'm in the mood.