One of the reasons our visit to Chez Foushee was such a treat is their commitment to classic sophistication. Too many restaurants focus on the hippest decor and the food trend du jour, when sometimes you just want good, quality food, which is exactly what Chez Foushee delivers. Nothing trendy here; just an elegant meal coupled with attentive, friendly service. Could we ask for anything more?
Chez Foushee had somehow escaped our radar as until recently, they were primarily a catering and lunch-only destination. Enter First Fridays whose bevy of activity inspired Chez Foushee's first foray into dinner service, which expanded to Fridays and Saturdays this summer.
We were quickly greeted by the host as we entered the clean and graceful dining area. The white walls adorned with tasteful artwork, high ceilings with pleasing wooden moldings, and tiered flooring presented a fine dining atmosphere. The server greeted us quickly with a pleasant demeanor and a confidence in his abilities. All of the employees seemed to move briskly and with a sense of purpose, but not as to show any sense of being overwhelmed. Our server professionally offered wine selections from a small, yet comprehensive wine list, which at $22-28 per bottle, is fairly reasonably priced. The menu was filled with delicacies but none of the showy self indulgent items that might show up on a rookie’s menu.
We started with a bowl of sherried crab bisque topped with a roasted red-pepper coulis ($6.75) and the prosciutto, manchego, carmelized onion, and olive plate ($7.75). The soup was rich and indulgent as a crab soup should be, and the red-pepper coulis added a hint of sweetness. The flavors of the varied ingredients in the olive plate paired surprisingly well for a light, European beginning to our meal.
The menu offers a variety of dishes with a few options for fish, white meat, red meat, and one pasta option along with weekly specials. Jon chose the pork tenderloin scallopini over polenta cakes ($20.75), which was served with a wild mushroom, proscuitto, and pinenut sauce. The mushrooms especially wowed with a velvety texture and buttery flavor. The pounded thin pork was seasoned well, tender, and matched excellently with the soft, rich polenta cakes.
Leah chose the nightly special, a grilled rockfish over roasted red potatoes with an orange-rosemary butter ($22.75). The thickly cut rockfish was juicy and flavorful and not even a hair overcooked. With just a hint of pink left in the middle of the filet, the freshness of the fish was evident. The slice of orange-rosemary butter served on top melted delicately over the fish and potatoes for a citrusy treat. The potatoes were the one disappointment. Overly crispy and dry, they were improved by dipping in the melting butter, but on their own, couldn't hold up to the perfectly cooked and flavorful fish.
We ended our meal with the lemon butter cake ($7.75), which came highly recommended as it's been a staple at Chez Foushee for 21 years. We were glad we took the advice, the cake had just the right amount of tartness, accented by fresh berries and a fruity melba sauce. We have no doubt this cake will continue to find new fans for many years to come.
Overall, our greatest impression was the classic professionalism in service and menu. Our server perfectly balanced attentive service with relaxed geniality, and was equally adept at entertaining the large table next to us. Chez Foushee has shown an ability to adapt to the modern restaurant scene without losing sight of the fine food and service that has kept them in business for over two decades.
Chez Foushee provides a great antidote to the trendy fray with a refined and fulfilling dining experience. Although they may miss a sense of uniqueness, their sheer professionalism and understanding of diners’ needs makes it a must-try restaurant.
Chez Foushee: ***1/2
203 N. Foushee Street (804) 648-3225
What’s in the Stars:
0—don’t go
*-average
** above average
*** very good
**** excellent dining experience
Jon and Leah Nelson, like most married couples, can’t agree on how the dishwasher should be loaded, so they eat out a lot so someone else can worry about the dishes. As RVA natives, they have had plenty of practice checking out what the city has to offer. You can follow Leah on Twitter @leahwnelson.
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