LuLu's in Shockoe Slip Restaurant Review

Call Richmond a town of institutions. Sure, we get excited about new faces on the scene, but deep down, we love anything that is a long-standing Richmond tradition. We could name beloved institutions in many categories, from the Jefferson Hotel to Gene Cox, but when Richmond restaurant institutions come to mind, Millie’s often tops the list.

LuLu’s, also owned by Millie’s Paul Keevil, has only been on the scene for about three years, but it should be included in any list of quintessential Richmond restaurants. With an eclectic menu of fusion-style dishes, incorporating everything from Asian influences to Creole and low-country and a prime location overlooking the 17th Street Farmers’ Market, it should be considered a top choice, not only for dates and outings with friends, but also as a great place to show off to out-of-towners. We have had many excellent meals there over the years, but decided to make another visit to see if the early promise has endured.

The space is open and inviting, able to accommodate large groups, as well as intimate booths and a large, fully stocked bar. The artwork celebrates the industrial background of Shockoe Bottom while feeling modern and clean.

The wine and beer list offered plenty of options, with a good number of wines available by the glass, mostly in the range of $6-$9. The appetizer offerings reflect the many different traditional influences, ranging from Thai fish cakes with a chili vinegar sauce to fried chicken livers with house-made pepper jelly (both $8).

We started with tequila-steamed mussels with bacon, butter, and chilies ($8), that were perfectly executed and unlike any other similar dish we have found. The mussels were the perfect size—not so large as to get chewy, but big enough to soak up the flavors of the slightly spicy broth. Combining butter, bacon and mussels is nothing new, but the addition of the chilies gave this appetizer a welcome touch of flair.

Eating out as much as we do, you would think we would know better than to go against the recommendations of a seasoned server. When quizzed about the fried chicken, our server admitted to this dish not being his favorite, but recommended it to someone who really likes fried chicken. We fell under the spell of thinking any fried chicken that costs $21 and includes a honey-habanero glaze has to be good.

We should have heeded the advice of our server. The portion was sizable, with excellent sides of dirty rice and maque choux, but the chicken just didn’t offer anything special. The meat had little flavor and the skin didn’t have that crispy goodness we were looking for. When you see habanero listed as an ingredient, you’re hoping for a little added spice, but the honey-habanero glaze brought the sweet from the honey with no spice from the habanero. This dish would be vastly improved if the chef took a hint from the fried-chicken joints and their hot sauce bottles to kick the spiciness up a notch on this dish.

The Nantucket seafood stew ($22) proved a more interesting and successful menu choice. Abundant portions of mussels, shrimp and chunks of sea bass were served in a warm potato-cream stew. The chunks of sea bass were perfectly flaky, breaking off into the stew with the slightest touch of a fork.

With the air getting crisper, this dish is a good way to warm the bones without the overwhelming heaviness found in most stews.

One of the main reasons we love LuLu’s is the pride every server we’ve encountered here has in the place. Our server on this occasion handled his duties admirably, keeping drinks filled, but more important, you felt as though he had a real stake in the success of the business. He knew every bit of the menu, making helpful (though regrettably unheeded) suggestions with detailed descriptions of the executions and made a point to make sure we knew about the Sunday brunch. Given the fly-by-night nature of the restaurant business, it speaks volumes to us when so much loyalty to one’s employer is evident in the staff.

While it’s easy to focus on "the next big thing" and the age-old Richmond institutions, there are places somewhere in-between that either transcend early buzz to become a mainstay or fade away. If you haven’t been by in a while, we can vouch that LuLu’s continues to earn consideration as an institution in the making.

LuLu’s *** (Three Stars)
21 N. 17th Street
(804) 343-9771

What’s in the Stars:
0—don’t go
*-average
** above average
*** very good
**** excellent dining experience

Jon and Leah Nelson, like most married couples, can’t agree on how the dishwasher should be loaded, so they eat out a lot so someone else can worry about the dishes. As RVA natives, they have had plenty of practice checking out what the city has to offer.