If you’ve taken a stroll through Carytown in the last couple of months, you’ve probably stumbled upon a chalkboard menu touting an ingredient and wine region of the week. If you’re like us, you’ve stopped to take a look and, likely, been greeted by Amour Wine Bistro owner Paul Heitz or his staff, who are happy to explain their unique menu concept.
We were intrigued and decided to pay a visit, and are happy to report that Amour is offering one of the best and most creative dining experiences we’ve had in recent memory.
The concept is based on the prix fixe menus prominent in France and other parts of Western Europe, with the added bonus of offering expert wine pairing. The menu changes weekly, with a fresh ingredient of the week paired with wines of a different region of France each month.
We love wine, but we’re admittedly clueless in pairing it with food, so we put ourselves into the hands of Amour to navigate us through the Bordeaux region.
Our visit fell on a weeknight, when two pairing options are offered, each of which offers one appetizer, one entrée, dessert or cheese tray and three 4-oz. glasses of wine. Prices are based on the level of wine chosen; we chose the basic option, the Discovery at $39 per person. Prices are slightly higher on Friday and Saturday nights ($49 for the Discovery flight), but additional amuse bouche courses are added on these nights. Two options are offered for appetizer, entrée and dessert, so the menu is perfect for a party of two to sample all of the offerings.
Before dinner, we were offered an aperitif drink menu, which included a specialty sparkling wine cocktail, a black currant kir royale ($10). Expecting a sweet concoction closer to a bellini, we were pleasantly surprised by the cocktail, which had just a hint of fruit accent added to the sparkling wine to create a crisp prelude to our meal.
Our appetizers, each incorporating the ingredient of the week, cabbage, were both excellent. The Asian-style slaw with seared scallops had a nice soy/sesame accent, which paired well with lightly seasoned scallops. The lamb-stuffed cabbage with tomato ragout was a big hit. Tender, ground lamb was encased in a green cabbage leaf, with a perfectly seasoned fresh tomato ragout. Even after the lamb and cabbage had been devoured, we scraped up every bit of the ragout we could.
The wine pairings, a white Entre Deux Mers Château Bonnet with the scallops, and a red Première Côtes de Bordeaux Chatâeu La Grange Clinet with the lamb, each complemented its dish perfectly. It was fun to switch plates to see how the different wines enhanced the flavors of the food.
We were equally pleased with our entrees. The salmon served on a bed of sauerkraut was cooked to perfection and well seasoned. The sauerkraut was not as vinegary as most variations we have found, which allowed the salmon and kraut to blend together nicely.
We marveled at how tender the braised red cabbage was. Paired with three variations of smoked meat, a crisp pork cut similar to thick bacon and two sausage variations, this dish paired especially well with a Côtes de Bourg Château Bousquet.
As a third course, Amour offers two desserts, both paired with a sparkling wine, or a cheese plate for an additional $7. We chose the carrot and applesauce layer cake and splurged on the cheese plate.
The carrot cake was wonderfully moist and not overly rich and the Crémant sparkling wine ended the meal well. The cheese plate was served with slices of fresh baguette and included an assorted sampling of four cheeses including Tome de Crayeuse and Roquefort Papillon. The cheese was good and an interesting complement, but a little heavy for the end of a meal.
Given the formal three-course menu, the service could have easily veered into snooty territory, but the staff could not have been friendlier. The courses were perfectly timed so that we had plenty of time to enjoy each course without ever wanting for anything. Our server was also more than happy to explain any detail of the menu without any air of pretension.
What was most enjoyable about Amour is the care and attention put into each detail of the meal. Chef Blair Bowles’ menu incorporates each ingredient well and shows a unique flair for flavors.
The place is comfortable and quaint and perfectly balances European sophistication without trying too hard. We love the approach that allows diners to put their trust in the restaurant to create a well-balanced dining experience, which Amour succeeded in creating for us.
Amour Wine Bistro **** (Four Stars)
3129 W. Cary Street
(804) 353-4020
What’s in the Stars:
0—don’t go
*-average
** above average
*** very good
**** excellent dining experience
Jon and Leah Nelson, like most married couples, can’t agree on how the dishwasher should be loaded, so they eat out a lot so someone else can worry about the dishes. As RVA natives, they have had plenty of practice checking out what the city has to offer.
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