Emilio's Short Pump Restaurant Review

Much has been made of Short Pump as the land of the national chain restaurant. While the Short Pump Mall restaurants work on two-hour waits, it stands to reason that there may be Short Pump residents who want more of a local, intimate feel. To that end, Emilio’s, a longtime purveyor within the city limits, is poised to offer a capable alternative to national chain malaise.

Our desire to check out Emilio’s was precipitated by a recent visit to Spain, during which we proceeded to eat everything we could get our hands on. After a few weeks of Iberian ham withdrawal, we were anxious to see if we could find a local fix for Spanish food.

One area where Emilio’s excels is in making the space look like it’s not tucked away in a suburban shopping center. The front area contains mosaic booths patterned after the work of Antonio Gaudi, an architect whose work features prominently in Barcelona. The booths give a whimsical feel to the front area, whereas the main dining area is more intimate, with small tables and a counter selling specialty Spanish groceries. On our Friday night visit, a Spanish guitar player entertained guests in this area, providing romantic ambiance for a Friday date night. While the mosaic booths do give an intimate feel to the space, it did create a division from the main dining area, so we felt a bit removed from the entertainment from our booth seat.

Emilio’s menu focuses on tapas—small plates meant for sharing—and the variety of offerings is staggering. Various paellas (including a fideaua, which uses pasta instead of rice) and a few dinner specials are also available.

Given the 45-minute preparation time required for the paellas, we put our order in for the Paella Mixta ($19.95), which includes chicken, mussels, shrimp, clams and calamari, then proceeded to peruse the tapas menu to start.

We settled on four tapas to complement our shared paella. The gambas al Ajillo ($5.95), touted on the menu as a bestseller, were a hit. The fresh shrimp in a special garlic sauce had just a hint of spice and the shrimp were nicely steamed. The patatas al Azafrán ($4.25), sauteed saffron-scented potatoes, were a unique and tasty option. Cooked to a tender, but not mushy, consistency and served piping hot, the hint of saffron flavor made these a perfect complement to some of the stronger flavors of the other tapas.

Having spent time in Spain, where cured meats are an art form, we knew no variation outside the country would ever compare to the ham we had there. Nonetheless, we decided to give Emilio’s plato de Embutidos de Ibérico ($12.75) a shot. A platter consisting of Serrano ham, Spanish chorizo and salchichón, this dish gave us just a taste of one of Spain’s best culinary treasures, but, as expected, was a poor substitute for the real deal. The chorizo was the best offering, with large chunks of flavorful and slightly spicy sausage; it paired well with the fresh bread we received at the table. However, the ham and salchichon just didn’t pack much of a flavor punch and left us longing.

Our final tapas choice, the Berenjenas a le Suecana ($5.95), a slice of fresh eggplant, lightly grilled then baked with marinara and manchego cheese had great potential, but the tough eggplant skin kept this dish from being a winner. Bites from the inside were flavorful, the marinara fresh and well seasoned, and the manchego a great accompaniment. Unfortunately, the texture of the skin districted from the other choice ingredients.

The paella was as authentic as any we have found in Richmond. The rice absorbed the smoky flavor of a well-seasoned paella pan, creating a hearty taste. The fillings were good, but the chicken, especially, could have used some additional seasoning.

Dessert options include several varieties of flan, including a coconut variety that seemed appealing; however we allowed our server to tempt us into Emilio’s version of tiramisu. Yes, we know this is an Italian specialty, but both of us prefer tiramisu to flan, so we put our desire for authenticity to the side and went with our taste buds. Good thing, as Emilio’s version was actually quite good. Angel-food cake subbed for ladyfingers, which created a more fluffy texture than in many versions. It wasn’t the best we’ve had, but, if you’re like us and flan isn’t your thing, give it a try.

Given the plethora of cookie-cutter chains in the Short Pump area, Emilio’s proves a welcome local and unique addition to the fray. We’d implore any Far-West-Enders to bypass the mall offerings and give this place a try for your next meal out.

Emilio’s *** (Three Stars)
200 Towne Center Blvd.
(804) 360-8080

What’s in the Stars:
0—don’t go
*-average
** above average
*** very good
**** excellent dining experience

Jon and Leah Nelson, like most married couples, can’t agree on how the dishwasher should be loaded, so they eat out a lot so someone else can worry about the dishes. As RVA natives, they have had plenty of practice checking out what the city has to offer.