In the Richmond area, we tend to get a little territorial about our sides of town. West Enders won’t dare cross the rivah, while city dwellers get a little green in the face at the mere mention of Short Pump. Every now and then, we find a place that makes us eschew our aversions and make a trip to that "other" side of town.
Eurasia, a hidden gem in the West End, offering fine service and a well-executed and delicious menu, made a trip away from our usual haunts worth our while.
Eurasia’s location off Gaskins Road is an expansion into the area after the success of the restaurant’s original Virginia Beach location. According to its website, Eurasia specializes in "New American cuisine with a heavy Asian influence," a combination that would normally turn us off—but this is not watered down Asian fusion. The dishes we experienced during our visit were well thought out and had a classic taste.
Upon arrival, we were promptly seated in the dimly lit and sophisticated dining room, which is conspicuously separated from a long, elegant bar. The tables are spaced nicely to give an intimate feel and once you walk in, you’ll immediately forget there’s a Starbucks right outside.
The wine list is extensive and a sommelier was overheard providing helpful hints on wine selection. Prices by the bottle start in the mid $20s and rise all the way up to high-dollar bottles, while a good variety of wines by the glass can be had for around $6 to $9.
We had a hard time settling on appetizers and entrees due to the wide array of options. Appetizers range from fried oysters to pork belly potstickers, while the salads, which include a Shenandoah apple, goat cheese and Surry ham with fig balsamic vinaigrette, were also tempting.
We settled on the Thai beef cabbage wraps ($13), four crisp leaves of green cabbage ready for stuffing with an assortment of goodies. We rolled the tangy, marinated hanger steak into the cabbage with an array of red onion, wontons, peanuts, carrots and peppers. Two sauces, one a spicy chili, the other a sweet plum, could be alternated for dipping. We loved the do-it-yourself wraps, and the steak was tender and thinly shredded. Rather than an attempt at Thai food, the appetizer nicely meshed Asian influence and spices with a refreshing treat.
As for the entrees, Leah went with the Parmesan-crusted diver scallops ($26) served atop a mascarpone risotto with chunks of country ham and green peas. Typically with scallops, less is more. Sprinkle a little seasoning on top, lightly sear each side and you’re good to go. So we were nervous that adding a Parmesan crust might be too much for such a delicate dish.
Thankfully, the execution of the scallops allayed our fears. The light crust on the scallops added just a hint of flavor, without masking the natural flavors of the melt-in-your-mouth scallops. The risotto also added a hearty and creamy accompaniment to the dish, with large chunks of ham adding a salty kick to the al dente rice.
Jon went with the Asian-influenced duck three ways ($26). Crispy confit duck leg, pan-seared Moulard duck breast and a foie gras toast highlighted the versatility and execution of the cooking staff. The skin of the confit duck leg was well seasoned and the dark meat had a hearty flavor. The foie gras toast was the star; its decadence played well against the textures and flavors of the other two styles. For an additional $2, we subbed out the normal sweet potato puree and broccoli rabe for the smoked Gouda grit cake, which was executed perfectly, with the cheese not overwhelming the grits.
When the subject of dessert came up, our server brought us the menu, but specifically recommended the apple fritters ($7). Boy, were we happy for the recommendation. Perfectly fried mounds of cinnamon and apples arrived piping hot, but were quickly cooled with a dip of vanilla ice cream. The combination of hot fried goodness with creamy vanilla helped these bites go down easy.
While the service and ambiance were top-notch, our one beef here is with the music selection. One minute we were enjoying a bit of smooth jazz, then next up would be Duran Duran, which didn’t quite mesh with the sophisticated atmosphere. Stick with a selection that enhances the mood, not a distraction.
Don’t let Eurasia’s name fool you. There is no Asian-fusion-everything-to-everyone disorder here. While the menu is a bit overwhelming, each dish we tried was executed well without trying too hard to do something flashy. If you are looking for classic dishes for a special night out, Eurasia delivers.
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