Richmond's Secret Beer Mecca

It seems that all too often Richmond beer taps have been bookended by PBR—Pabst Blue Ribbon (or the People’s Beer of Richmond, if you’re from around these parts)—and Legend Brown Ale, with some American light lagers scattered in between.

One doesn’t have to search too deeply in the annals of beer list history in Richmond to find even the most respected taverns listing Heineken and Corona as their specialty beer offerings, but, if you haven’t noticed, Richmond has changed.

Yes, the college bars that pay the rent with stovepipe cans and rail shots still sell keg after keg of the mass production ales, but there is a growing number of local haunts that have realized that when it comes to craft ales, if you tap it, they will come—and drink.

Lately, it seems it’s almost too difficult to decide where to drink phenomenal beer in Richmond.

Established heavy hitters such as Mekong, Commercial Taphouse and Capital Ale House are always safe bets, but how can you deny the allure of 28 taps at The Camel—with live music to boot—mind-boggling craft beer happy hours at Joe’s Inn, the obscure selection at Olio or the small but well-crafted draft selections at spots like Tarrants and Garnett’s Café?

It is possible, though, that Richmond’s best kept secret beer Mecca lies in a little coffee shop that, prior to opening a bit over nine years ago, was a south bank garage.

In February of 2011, long-time beer lover and co-owner of Crossroads Coffee & Ice Cream, Will Herring added an eight-tap keg system and an impressive bottle collection to his neighborhood coffee shop nestled near the crossroads of Semmes and Forest Hill avenues.

There is no PBR on tap, in a can, or in a bottle at Crossroads; in fact, you will find nothing but the finest domestic and imported craft ales available and you’ll get to enjoy them in the whimsical, music-centric café setting for which Crossroads has always been famous.

Crossroads quickly became a hotspot for beer fanatics because Herring, and co-owner Olivia Patrick, served great beer, properly, and drew on their existing clientele—neighborhood folks dying for a local evening spot that was as good as Crossroads Coffee was in the morning. The concept was an instant success and, according to Herring, allowed the company to continue to offer benefits to the staff, such as health insurance, due to a roughly 25-percent increase in overall sales due to craft beer.

Still, despite such a hearty increase in volume, the staff at Crossroads has noticed that they don’t see a lot of new faces—people are just stopping in for a second visit in the evenings for a pint and some good friends.

Herring notes that his vision for the café was based on a Euro-style neighborhood spot that was family oriented—a place where parents could have a beer or a glass of wine, get ice cream for their kids and feel comfortable with their pets tagging along. He notes that the local bar scene can end up feeling like a "meat market" and it just isn’t a place a family can feel relaxed and truly enjoy their evening.

With handmade desserts, coffee by Rostov’s and Blanchard’s Coffee Co. and ice cream by Bev’s, this local café certainly has something to satisfy the whole family.

Herring has taken his role as a passionate purveyor of fine craft ales quite seriously by bringing in rare ales seldom found on tap and even going so far as to partner with the Baltimore, Maryland brewery Clipper City Brewing (brewers of Heavy Seas Ales) to brew a unique pumpkin seasonal designed by him and the brewmaster for a one-time firkin tapped on Friday, Oct. 21 and extending through the weekend. According to Herring, he infused the pumpkin ale with local honey, dried orange peel, coriander, vanilla and pumpkin seeds to give it a truly unique profile.

More special events are in the works including a Belgian tasting featuring Duvel, Ommegang and others for Beer Week. A representative from Duvel and Ommegang will offer a tasting Nov. 4 starting at 5 p.m. Crossroads has also featured an on-going music series presenting local musicians each week. Herring is temporarily extending a covered patio with heaters to allow for larger audiences until the structure can be permanently enclosed.

With colder weather on the way, Herring intends to feature more firkins of cask ale and, by the end of October, an additional eight beers on tap for a grand total of 16 taps—almost as many as seats in the café. Per square foot, it’s a foregone conclusion that Crossroads will then have the most extensive beer selection in Richmond for such a small business.

Herring has no intention to stop pushing the limits of his specialty beer program—he will soon be introducing several rare Japanese ales as well as the infamous Dogfish Head 120 Minute IPA—don’t let the price deter you, it is a strong ale you must try at least once in your life. If autumn seasonals are your passion, Crossroads will soon be tapping the Autumn Maple from The Bruerey—an ale that uses over 17 pounds of yams per keg as well as traditional autumn spices in a 10-percent alcohol ale that simply bleeds Thanksgiving.

The organic growth and development of the new Crossroads has been, by Herring’s description, "a wild ride" and it is far from over.

On the horizon there is an expanded kitchen at the Forest Hill Avenue location, a matching ABC license at the VCU location and the coming to fruition of a little rumor spreading around the south bank—a rooftop patio.

That’s right, Herring happens to be the proud owner of the spiral staircase that used to reside at the Martin Agency and, though still in the structural engineering planning stages, he hopes to convert the roof of the old filling station to an all-season rooftop patio overlooking a lush urban beer garden.

Crossroads Coffee and Ice Cream is not only here to stay, it’s here to be the best community spot in town. It is clear from the continued success and the absolutely adoring customer base that Herring and Patrick have their finger on the pulse of the neighborhood that loves and supports them. In the name of great coffee, food, friends and beer, raise a toast to their continued success.