Mediterranean Brick Oven Restaurant Review

The term Mediterranean covers quite a bit of territory. While Greece, the south of France, Turkey, and Egypt could all be characterized as Mediterranean, each country boasts its own cultural and culinary nuances.

Much like the region in its name, Mediterranean Brick Oven attempts to cover a broad range of tastes. A fantastic menu of carefully prepared Middle Eastern favorites on one side gives way to a typical listing of casual Italian staples that don’t quite live up to the standard set by the first side of the menu.

The small Forest Hill eatery and market certainly delivers fresh and delicious takes on many Middle Eastern specialties—from baba ghanoush to kabobs. Each is prepared fresh to order and with a nod to getting all of the little details right. Novices will receive a proper introduction to Middle Eastern flavors while connoisseurs will appreciate the careful preparation.

The space is split between the restaurant and a neighboring market specializing in grocery items from Syria, Jordan and Lebanon. Home cooks who are looking for authentic ingredients for their Middle Eastern or halal dishes will find a nice selection of wares to peruse.

The dining room is set up with tables and booths facing the open kitchen area complete with brick oven and deli counter for takeout. Attractive tiling work is noted throughout—the handiwork of owner Mo Jubran.

Between our lunch visit and dinner takeout, we felt the small family-run space is best suited for takeout service. A lack of background music is discomforting, and although the service is personable, running both front and back of house simultaneously proves a tall order for the small operation.

We started with the baba ghanoush ($3.95), a spread of eggplant roasted and mashed and mixed with tahini, olive oil and fresh herbs. The lightly toasted pita bread had a lovely rustic flavor to blend with the savory and slightly smoky baba ghanoush.

Falafel ($4.50) is similarly satisfying. Eight deep-fried mounds of mashed chickpeas boasted a potent spice blend that gave the chickpeas a dynamic flavor. Lamb kabobs ($10.95) utilize a mild spice blend on tenderly grilled chunks of lamb (kafta and chicken are also available). Large chunks of grilled tomato, bell pepper and onion and a side of refreshing tabbouleh round out a full and tasty lunch.

The chicken shawarma ($4.95), though small, was exceptional. What looked like a plain wrap filled with grilled chicken and veggies impressed with a pungent and creamy garlic sauce. The meat and onions featured a fresh seasoning that stood out among an array of satisfying dishes.

With the detail and care that went into the preparation of the Middle Eastern dishes, we were hoping for something similarly outstanding from the second side of the menu, featuring casual Italian fare. Yet, it is clear that the Middle Eastern food is where this eatery’s expertise lies.

A meatball sub ($5.50) was the typical offering. The meatballs suffered from a lack of herbs and seasoning, leaving a bland taste. The bread and marinara were serviceable, but similar to what can be found at any neighborhood deli.

An order of spaghetti ($5.50) had a similar lack of pizzazz. The thick spaghetti noodles were fresh and flavorful, but the marinara fell flat. The addition of fresh herbs and garlic would go a long way to adding some complexity to this simple sauce.

In a competitive climate like the restaurant business, there is always temptation to cater to a wide variety of tastes, especially as there are surely folks who are not familiar with Middle Eastern cuisine. Yet, it’s hard to judge a restaurant as a whole when part of a menu is exceptional while the other is mediocre.

When Mediterranean Brick Oven sticks to what they’re good at, they prove to be one of the best options for affordable Middle Eastern food in the area. If you are looking for a casual takeout or deli-style lunch spot, stick to the front side of the menu, and you may just find a new favorite.